Last weekend I attended a wine tasting class that was specifically
about Portuguese wines, which is not an easy thing to find. Typically those
classes tend to focus on a certain type of French wine, say, or a region of a
country and its wines and, at any rate, Portuguese wines tend to be under the
radar.
This one was held at Barcelona, a restaurant in West
Hartford, CT, not too far from where I live. The instructor was Gretchen Thomas, the Wine and Spirits Director for the Barcelona Restaurant Group, and she
did a fantastic job.
Amazingly, she even did a good job on pronunciation. I was
prepared for the usual mispronunciation of the letter “J,” for example. Most
people assume it is spoken the way it is in Spanish, where the J is turned into
an H sound. In Portuguese it makes a “ZHH” sound.
Once I was in Blue Apron, which is a fancy charcuterie in
Park Slope, Brooklyn, where I used to live and they actually had the delicious
São Jorge cheese. It’s from the island of the same name, which is one of the Azores
and when I traveled there I had it several times. I said to the guy behind the
counter, “Wow, I can’t believe you have this!”
“Oh, Yes, the São HOR-hay, “ he said. “It’s quite good.”
“Yes, I’ve had it in the Azores, but it’s pronounced São
ZHORJE,” I said.
“Hor-hay,” he said back.
“In Portuguese they don’t pronounce the letter J like an H,”
I insisted.
“How much of it would you like?” he asked, ending the
conversation while simultaneously not acknowledging my expertise on the
subject. I’d like to say I stopped going there, but I’m afraid I am completely
unable to boycott good food sources.
It is conversations such as those that make me the fan of
wine drinking that I am.
I am certainly no expert on Portuguese wines, myself, but I’ve
probably had more of it than most people I know. I have been to Portugal many
times and I have always had good wine for cheap. And when I say cheap, I mean
CHEAP. Over there a good bottle of red from the Alentejo cooperativas could
cost about $3.00.
I am also no expert as regards wine tasting in general. In
fact I must here confess that I really don’t understand wine tasting (although
I find the idea of it thrilling). For example, I watched our instructor in
fascination as she talked about a certain wine, swished it around in her mouth
and then spit it into a cup. This is something I never do with wine. I drink
it.
I am able, also, to see the differences in wine viscosity,
and even to vaguely understand what about the wine making process causes
different thicknesses and colors. But darned if I can figure out what the heck
difference it makes to me.
I am getting better at discerning the previously mysterious
interpretations of wine flavors, though. Whereas before the notion that a wine
might have undertones of blackberry or coffee bean, or (shudder) freshly cut
grass was gibberish to me, I can now detect hints of other flavors. Just not
freshly cut grass.
One of the most interesting aspects of the class was about
Port wine (Vinho do Porto in Portuguese). Port has a very complex and
fascinating history that is intertwined with the history of merchant shipping,
European politics and culture. When I think of Port, I think of a bunch of
Victorian men sitting around in the smoking room after dinner with cigars and
sipping a glass of fine Port, whilst chatting about the day’s hunt.
I mirror that practice myself, down to the last detail. I
sit in my living room, sipping a ruby red glass of Port. I just delete the
cigar, since I don’t smoke and skip the part about discussing the hunt, since I
don’t do that either. Also I am the only
one drinking, since my daughter is 17. In my case it’s more like just sipping
the Port—period.
It was very cool to finally figure out the differences
between all of the types of Port. Tawny, Ruby, Ten-Year, etc. were all labels
that I did not previously understand. If you want to learn the differences too, just click
here to read about it in my About.com article on the topic.
And how about that fox, eh?
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